The Ruins of Highway 186; The Real Ruta Maya
Beginning with Kohunlich
See also
© Mike Reed
An area that is growing tremendously in interest but is still fairly unspoiled is southern Quintana Roo and Campeche states in Mexico. Some of the most interesting and beautiful clusters of Maya ruins are located between Chetumal and Escárcega, along Highway 186, an area of few people and only one small town. Specifically I am referring to the fabulous sites of Kohunlich, Dzibanché, Xpuhil, Becan, Chicanná, Río Bec, Balamku and of course, Calakmul. I have visited this region twice in the past five years and am amazed at the treasures in this relatively unknown area. I will briefly touch on some of these sites in this and other messages.
KOHUNLICH
Kohunlich, with its Temple
of the Masks and extensive and
well-preserved palaces and temples has been
easily accessible for years because of its proximity to Chetumal. Its park-like
setting surrounded by some pretty nice tall forest is exceptionally beautiful.
The eight giant masks of the sun god on the main temple pyramid are from the
early classic period and are stunning to see.
Kohunlich, which means ridge
of the Kohune palm (or
cohune) is an extensive site located in a beautiful and
isolated stretch of tropical forest about an hour's drive west of Chetumal on
Highway 186. The forest setting and the scores of well-preserved temples and
palace complexes will amaze and delight the occasional visitor. Perhaps the lack
of crowds is the best part of this wonderful place. The short drive south from
the highway hints of things to come as the forest seems to want to overwhelm the
narrow paved road and coatis, agoutis and occasional foxes scamper across the
road, unaware of the dangers of cars. The road abruptly ends at the guard
station and the small grassy lawn serves as a parking lot and campground for
those who want the special experience of camping in the tropical forest and
roaming a vast, deserted Maya city at night by flashlight.
The friendly guards will take your admission and perhaps offer to guide you for a small fee. The gated entrance immediately becomes a dirt road under the canopy but within a hundred yards the whole scene opens up in a spectacular view. Wide-open plazas covered with standing architecture challenge the visitor to choose a direction in which to explore. The number of buildings, platforms and plazas in three directions can be disorienting on first sight. One is tempted to go to the left and wander through the maze of palaces and courtyards but many are most interested in heading directly to the main attraction: the Pyramid of the Masks.
The adults in the group I led chose to delay the urge of gratification by veering left and climbing up the very large palace platform which overlooks much of the site. Just getting to the palace is a delightful stroll across grassy courtyards arranged in the typical triad arrangement of the pre-classic and early classic period buildings. Most temples and palace structure are intact with fallen roofs but
The arrangements of the buildings and the large trees with buttress roots snaking over and through the buildings evokes the "lost world" feeling that permeates the city. The enormity of the palace platform is awe-inspiring when one thinks of the amount of human labor involved in hauling earth and rocks to build the platform.
The palace complex itself, with its courtyard affords spectacular views of the center of the city. One side of the palace has excavations showing the older platforms, buried within the excavated and most recent platform. It shows nicely cut walls and even a filled-in entrance to an old palace up on a ledge.
Straight ahead lies the "Mascarones." The Pyramid of the Masks is arguably one of the most beautiful artistic achievements from the early classic period that has survived intact into the modern period and is open to the public. The eight giant sun-god masks which line the central staircase were uncovered by archaeologists while stripping away the ruined outer layers of the later pyramids which enclosed the masks. They are something to see and appear to be almost newly made and still retain much of the red paint covering their surfaces. The excellent condition of the masks is the result of the ancient practice of carefully preserving and covering over certain especially holy temples while building newer ones directly over the old temples. Los Mascarones was one of the first such early classic works of megalithic art discovered. Many others are now known but have been covered over with earth for their protection at places like Copan and Uaxactun.
The large ball court is close to this temple and is well-preserved as are the plastered remains of the floor of a large courtyard. The Maya covered all of their courtyards and plazas with layers of plaster but few survive. Also, a number of fairly eroded stelae are scattered in front of temples. A short distance into the forest but away from the center of the city is a recently excavated and restored hilltop palace complex.
Just hiking to the site is a delight, but the clean white limestone blocks and the plastered floors lighten up the forest clearing. The views of the surrounding forested countryside remind the visitor of the virtual absence of modern Maya milpas and villages. Kohunlich is a very special place. It has changed little since its excavation began in the 1960's. It is special to me as well because during my first visit the late epigrapher, Linda Schele showed up with a busload of Guatemalan Maya and explained the significance of the giant masks.