El Mirador-Nakbé
A look at general information and logistics originally
gleaned from a trip to both in July 2002 along with updates from one
of late December-early January, 2006
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Who to contact to arrange things
What to Bring
At La Muerta near El Mirador
At best, this is a somewhat arduous trip. You should not go on it unless you are reasonably decent shape.
On my two trips, there was someone traveling with us each time who was over sixty years old (62 and 65) each time,
so don't let age be too much of a deterrent.
The ruins called El Mirador and Nakbé are located in the Petén Jungle of Northern Guatemala. These are in an area known as the Mirador basin, which is now a protected area and has soils that are unique to the region. No roads go to these or the many other other sites there, which lost all population in a short period around 150 CE. The Mirador Basin Project is set up to work toward keeping the area as it is, accessible only on foot, horseback or by helicopter.
In arranging for my first trip there, I attempted to contact Ecomaya (now called Tikal Connection) by e-mail. This is an organization that is located in Flores, but it did not respond. Although it is a local agency that arranges trips such as ours, its website did not mention Nakbé as one of their destinations and its lack of response was a bit of a problem. Maya Expeditions did answer my e-mails, did offer Nakbé and we arranged a trip through it. If Tikal Connection ignores your e-mail and you somehow have not come upon a much better alternative before finishing this discussion, my suggestion is to call them before giving up.
It turned out that Maya Expeditions had merely contracted with Ecomaya to take us and had only added an extra layer of expense. It was that organization that did the motorized transportation and made the actual arrangements with the Carmelita Cooperativa, some of whose members would take us onward. At the Ecomaya office, we were happy to be able to leave some odds and ends, including a clean set each of clothes for our return. However, we could have done the same at Carmelita had we made arrangements directly with the cooperativa there. Essentially, what Ecomaya added was transportation. See below for suggestions of what to take and not to take on such a trip.
In that trip, we were lucky with the weather, in that it only rained once when we were there in mid-July and the trails were essentially dry when we had to travel. Another fellow, who went in September 2002, when it was quite rainy, reported that having gum boots along became so important that they turned back to Carmelita to buy some. In an early January trip, the trails were muddy, but generally doable, but it was good to have mules to ride when the mud was bad.
In some parts toward Nakbé from Carmelita, much of it it seemed like an endless array of ruins. Some of those places were of good size. By going there from Carmelita, we had not really added all that much in distance from a mere one way to Mirador and we got to see so many more ruins, even if only by riding through them. It is around 3 1/2 hours hiking or riding between Mirador and Nakbé and the latter is 5 kilometers closer to Carmelita. On my second trip, we asked for and got a short detour between Nakbé and Carmelita to see the ruins at Wakná.
Camps were at ruin sites and
they had
existing frames for setting up tarps over them for shelter.
Each place had a
basic place where Rosa could cook and young Luis would later get stuck with the
dishes. This looked similar to other sites in Guatemala where visitors may
do their own cooking.
Our guide and his brothers set up plastic tarps over the frames in the camp to keep off any rain. They also placed mosquito nets to keep us from those pests at night. Except in the cool of the evening and the morning, these cubicles were stuffy. The hammocks were mostly of a solid material, so that there was no air flow from the bottom. However, as the temperature dropped in the evening to the high 60s F, a blanket was a welcome bedmate and the lack of air flow did seem like a good idea.
In all camps but at El Mirador the first trip we were seven in a row and one fellow was off in his tent. There we were in two groups of four and a bit apart from each other. The shelter frames are sturdy enough, but they did move a bit each time someone got up or returned to bed in the night. However, in my second trip, there were fewer of us and rain was less likely, so we slept with hammocks strung between trees. The possibility of moving and shaking at night is something that a light sleeper should take into account in deciding whether to bring a tent.
The campsites at ruins had outhouses with real seats and covers. All of them also had a large resident population of mosquitoes in July, but not January, so I was quite glad that I wasn't constipated at any point on the first trip.
With the use of DEET, mosquitoes were rarely a problem. During the rides, they usually seemed more interested in following behind the mules than in penetrating our chemical defenses. At night, we had netting that was effective and while hanging around by a fire, we could socialize without problem due to the heavy use of repellent.
We rode through the ruins of
La Florida, Guiro,
La Muerta, La Naranjita,
Perro, Arroyo, La Lucha and Esperanzita, of which only La Muerta and La Florida
were clearly marked,
but our guide, José Morales, later listed the others for me. Near the end of our
journey, we stopped at El Tintal and climbed its pyramid. Jose also mentioned
one called Caracol, which is not to be confused with the more famous one in
Belize. We had a full day at each of El Mirador and Nakbé, between
which we meandered on a small path on the large ancient causeway connecting
them. Although the full days made other ones a bit harder, it
was worth it. These were the major ones we wanted to see. The others were icing
on the cake.
Our seven day trip was a rather leisurely one compared to three young fellows and their guide, who did a three day trip on horseback from Carmelita to El Mirador and back, including one day there. This is 70 km each way. I wouldn't have believed it, but they rode quickly in when we were there near the end of our trip and we later ran across one of them when we returned to Flores. I suspect that their horses were much faster mounts than our mules were and I know that they had much younger muscles.
I would suggest that if a person or group is ever going to splurge with a hotel, this is the trip to do it after. On my first trip, some of us had made reservations at the Casona de la Isla, which is a nice hotel with a pleasant pool. Most of the others decided that it was such a good idea that they joined us. Relaxing in that pool with a beer in hand ranks as one of my favorite memories. The idea of the pool, which some of us had looked over ahead of time ranked highly in my thoughts on the last day on the trail as well. After our second trip, I wound up in a room with balcony and magnificent view of the lake at Hotel Santana.
Those wanting to do this trip may contact one of the following:
If you have more money than stamina
Getting to El Mirador by Helicopter is affordable if you can go on one of their selected
dates and enough people sign up for all of the other flight options or see exploremirador.com.
If you speak little or no Spanish:
Keep in mind that most tours you pay for at any prices will usually involve only Spanish speaking guides.
Any agency in Flores can speak to you in English and help you arrange a trip. The prices vary, presumably partly because some may and some may not use the cooperative. Check around for prices and let it be known that you would be interested in joining a group to get there. Most prices are based on the number going, usually with the price per person going down considerably with additional members. See this page for Flores phone numbers that include other local travel agencies.
Matthias at Hostel Los Amigos arranges Mirador/Nakbé trips and seems to be the best option for anyone wanting to not pay a whole lot.
Try Tikal Connection, formerly Ecomaya, if you have plenty of money to spend. Be aware that if you are traveling alone, the current price for a solo traveler is not even listed, but would be presumably twice the single rate and well over $600. If you are traveling with several others and have some time to look around, you do not need to arrange with them ahead of time. You can look at other options, such as asking at a number of agencies in town and use them as a backup plan if nothing less expensive works out:
You could try the Mayan Lands Agency, next to the Hotel La Canoa, but be aware of the possibilities. (5563-7931)
Viajes Tivoli, (502 5554 0433) as of January 2006 arranged the 6 day version for two people for $375 each. It would be less for the five day version and/or for more people.
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If you or someone with you speaks some communicable level of Espańol:
You can contact Carmelita directly ahead of time if you can call and communicate in Spanish. It is possible to just show up in Carmelita and arrange things, but not for the very next day, because the bus arrives around 4 PM and that is too late for the guide to get it ready. There are rooms for rent for 35Q per person. There is one comedor in town and some small stores.
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Adonis Lopez does tours to El Mirador, Nakbé and other places from San Andrés, which is across the lake from Flores and on the way there. He speaks Spanish only, but has two cellular phones: 502- 5619 8465 and 5578 1832. His quote for a 6 day trip to El Mirador and Nakbé for two people in August 2005 was $300 each including transport from San Andrés and back. More people would pay less each, as would a trip just to El Mirador. To get to the departure point, you would need to take a taxi or one of the frequent buses and minivans that go to San Andres/San José. Currently they are leaving from the new bus station.
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Things to Take on a Jungle Trip to El Mirador/Nakbé
Go lightly or pay extra for an extra pack mule.
(this list includes what you will be wearing and leave a change of clean clothes behind, either
at the hotel you will be staying, with your outfitter or with the Cooperativa)
A small duffle bag that will hold what you take along. Light is better than heavy. Leave unnecessary items behind and keep what you take under 20 pounds. It will be put in a largeduffle with other people's gear and slung over a mule during the day's hike. For balance, there will be two on each mule. If you show up with a large duffle, expect to pay for an extra mule.
A small knapsack or largish fanny pack. You won't have access to your regular bag along the trail in the day.
Wet wipes and hand cleanser for cleaning without water. Soap and shampoo in case you get to use some local water at El Mirador and Nakbé for washing, but don't count on it.
2 or 3 T-shirts. If it is winter in the Northern Hemisphere, consider a light sweater to sleep in with layers.
1 light long sleeve shirt.
1 pair of shorts and 1 Pair of long pants or two pairs of long pants. Long pants are best for riding, especially where the trail narrows.
1 Pair of light hiking boots. If you plan to walk, an extra pair of footwear would be a good idea.
Light weight jacket.
Emergency poncho (if it is the rainy season, but then you should consider buying gum boots or renting a riding mule if walking).
3 or 4 pairs of socks and underwear. Needless to say, these can get pretty rank on a 5-6 day trip. You may be able to wash up a bit at both El Mirador and Nakbé if there is enough rain water saved to spare you some.
Cap or hat.
1 small camp towel. You will want to do some minor washing every day. Some US nurses call it PTA, or pits, tits and ass.
Flashlight (extra batteries). One that you can place on your head and see things without using your hands works very well. Probably another that is small enough to fit in your pocket and not disturb your sleep would be good for those late night visits to a tree.
Two 1 1/2 liter water bottles you bought in town. Include 1 meter or so cord to tie them with around the lip to hang from the pommel of the mule if you hire one. You won't easily have access to water jugs during much of the day when on the move.
Strong mosquito repellent (DEET) and tick repellent. Use some Permethrin AKA Permanone to spray your pants legs and stockings.
Permethrin. Or just spray it on your lower pants and the sox you will wear.
Sunscreen.
Sun glasses (with safety cord)
A small first aid kit, but don't overdo it. Some plastic bandages and wet wipes with antiseptics, anti-itch creams and a pair of tweezers in a plastic bag are probably enough. The cooperativa or guide probably has something along, but this is good to have anywhere.
Chloroquine tablets if you are due to take a weekly dose during the trek.
Whiskey or some other firewater as tips for the guards at El Mirador and Nakbé if you are going there. It could be something as simple as Guatemala's Old Friend brand. At major ruins one of the guards will accompany people around to show and explain things. They deserve a tip and cash does not do much when they are two days from the nearest town. If you disapprove of the alcohol option, something else of a consumable nature would be good. Bringing it in a container of a combustible nature is best.
Don't Bring
A frame backpack, unless you plan to carry it on your back. Mules only carry bags or soft packs stuffed into large duffels. If you have one, leave it with your change of clothes and other things that you leave behind at the hotel you will return to.
a lot of toilet paper ( it is provided, but you will want to have some along in order to duck into the bushes along the way)
Hammock (provided).
Mosquito net (provided).
Extra drinking water (provided in large jugs) or a water filter.
Too much gear. You might end up delaying things for you and others by picking through your things at the last minute at the guide's insistence. Or you might paying for an extra pack mule to carry all of it. I have left my carry on bag with the outfitter and have taken a small duffle bag. Another option would be to make a reservation for your return with a hotel where you can leave your locked luggage while you are gone.
Optional
Renting a mule to ride. Keep in mind that the bajos can be wet during most months and trudging through mud is no fun. Mid to late February, March, April and early May would probably be the best times to not bother with a riding mule. However, even if you are in a young group that is entirely fit, you might still consider hiring a riding mule in case one of you sprains an ankle or becomes ill. Note that if you do become ill from food, it will almost certainly be from something you ate before starting out. The last thing a tour guide wants is any sick travelers, so cooking appears to be very sanitary.
A small tent. The larger the group you are in, the more people might be snoring and also getting up in the night, slightly shaking the poles holding the hammocks when they do. If you are a heavy sleeper or are in a smaller group, where where your hammock can be tied to trees, this should not be much of a problem. If you are in a small group and there are no others, and the chance of rain is slim, the ayudante can sling your hammock between trees. If so, there is no reason at all for a tent.
Food. Although food is included, it can be very basic and lacking in protein. If all of you bring something good that can be added to the common fare, it makes the meals better. On my first trip I brought some ham in plastic that did not have to be refrigerated and it went well with scrambled eggs on a couple of mornings. On the second I brought more of the same, but summer sausage would have been good too. Food on a Carmelita Cooperative trip is likely to be better and will include good meals at the village comedor at beginning and end of your trip. Granola bars are good to have on the trail as well. Packaging that is combustible in the camp or in the cooking fire is best.
Tea or other hot drinks or specialty coffee if you don't care for ordinary instant coffee. On a whim I had brought some powdered chai latté, but I also had hot chocolate, regular tea, and bouillon that were all great in the early morning coolness.
It's up to you and what your priorities are. Usually mid- February through April will generally be the driest months.
To see more wildlife, wetter months are generally better. I understand that May is the month for great varieties of
caterpillars. September would be the month I would avoid, because there is a lot of precipitation, but I did hear back from a
fellow who had a grand time forging ahead in gum boots in a very rainy September. To get an idea of what the weather
has been there in previous years at the time you want to go, check wunderground's info for Flores.
Good luck!
Updated information is both welcome and requested. Please mail your info to
web_ahau @ mostlymaya.com
Nakbé is in the distance here as three close little dimples on the horizon from El Mirador. It took us 3 1/2 hours to do the 10 or so kilometers to get there in early 2006. Including it involves an extra day, but also traveling there takes you 5 Km closer to Carmelita, so it does not include much extra exertion. There is a major causeway connecting Nakbé and El Mirador and much of the route meanders along it and you can even look over and and see where the edge is. Going via Nakbé involves riding or hiking through a couple more ruin sites and stopping overnight at and seeing the ruins of La Florida. Often the extra day does not cost much extra and you will see much more than just El Mirador and Tintal.
More Mirador Photos, courtesy of Erik Christiansen