Day Trip Suggestions from
Cancun
by Mike Reed There are two major sites
which people usually go to when they want a day trip from Cancun, Chichén Itzá
and Tulum. However, the former is not in any league with the latter. It was THE
dominant power in the northern peninsula after its successful campaign against
Cobá in the 9th century. The site is enormous and represents a very long period
of occupation by Maya groups, greatly influenced by the Toltec culture of
Central Mexico (or as some say, it was the other way around). Nevertheless,
numerous styles of Maya art and architecture are represented at Chichén Itzá
including the Chenes, Puuc and of course, the Itzá/Toltec style. What is becoming
increasingly clear is that Chichén Itzá was a MAYA Center, not a Toltec
outpost. Virtually all buildings include mostly Maya influence in the art and architecture.
Many Mayan inscriptions are carved in the limestone structures. Best of all, Chichén
has been lovingly restored and is big enough to accommodate the multitudes who
descend on it daily. Unfortunately, like Tulum, many of the taller temples are
increasing "off-limits" to tourists who damage the fragile limestone
facades by their sheer numbers. It's just not the same place if you can't climb
up on the Castillo or the Temple of the Warriors and enjoy the view and feel the
"spiritual" power of the place. But there's still plenty to see and
it's probably the best restored ruin in all of Mesoamerica. It is also not far
from other worthwhile places and ruins such as Ek' Balaam just to the north of
Valladolid) and Yaxuná, (just to the south). On the way back to Cancun
from Tulum, there are several ruins worth seeing, including the less seen
site of Xel Ha, next to the over visited lagoon of the same name. Also, the coastal towns, like
Playa del Carmen and Puerto Morales are growing fast and offer much for the
tourist tired of the pace and commercialism of Cancun. More
About Tulum The city of Tulum was
actually fully occupied when the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century. It
was slowly abandoned and reverted to jungle within 100 years. The Maya, however,
never forgot it's spiritual importance as the easternmost major city, associated
with the rising of the sun god, Kinich and never really stopped being a
"pilgrimage" site for the Maya until it was physically taken over by
the Mexican government and turned into an archaeological zone. The army base, formerly,
located at the crossroads attests to the distrust between the Maya and the
Ladino government over a site of contrasting importance. An ill-informed rumor,
spread by tour guides and a few guide books claims that the Maya actually
murdered an archaeologist and entombed him in the steps of the
"Castillo" of Tulum. The truth of the situation is that Tulum was the
northernmost "important" town of the rebel "Cruzob," the
"People of the Cross" during the Caste War of Yucatan. The Maya rebelled against
the dominant Spanish-speaking Yucatecans in 1848, nearly taking the entire peninsula
until their sacred need to plant the "holy" corn disrupted their
military campaign at the gates of Mérida, giving the Yucatecans the needed time
to get reinforcements and arms. This lull for planting was a strategic disaster
for the victorious Maya, who had freed themselves from the yokes of their hated
masters and were poised to create the first real Native American state in
America. In the midst of the
Yucatecan reaction and retribution, in 1850 the religion of the Talking Cross
evolved and provided encouragement to its followers, the Cruzob. It took the
Yucatecans years to drive the remaining Maya, who survived the ambushes,
diseases and famines of the time into the farthest reaches of what is now the
Mexican state of Quintana Roo, but then a veritable no-man's wilderness of
forest. Centered at the holy well of the "Speaking Cross" at a
"Maya-created" capital, called Chan Santa Cruz (today's Felipe Carrillo
Puerto), the Cruzob held out for 50 years against repeated Yucatecan and Mexican
army campaigns defeating army after army until disease and the overwhelming resources
and power of the "Porfirio Diaz" government captured Chan Santa Cruz
and dispersed the Cruzob into their scattered hamlets where they remain today,
staunchly independent, and protective of their status as keeper of the
"true Speaking Crosses." As I said, Tulum was the
northernmost of these towns and a very holy site in itself, with the unusual
distinction of having a Maya priestess, in charge. The ruins were clearly the
reason for the existence of the town. Foreigners were not welcomed until the
government treaty of the 1930's officially ended the Maya resistance to Mexican
rule. Today, the Cruzob are very
much alive in places to the south of Tulum and even in Tulum but are rapidly
being seduced from the sacred "planting of the corn" by jobs as
waiters, dishwashers, and maids in tourist hotels and restaurants. In general,
the Cruzob are suspicious of outsiders probing into their past but are actually
pretty friendly with English-speaking tourists, who represent the only ally the
Cruzob ever had during the war, the English of Belize, who supplied them with
the guns and ammo to continue defending themselves. This "contraband"
arms trade was rationalized by the English as "trading with a "sovereign
state" as they recognized the reality of 50 years of Cruzob control of
Quintana Roo. Indians of Ladinos were all the same to the English
merchants...paying customers. If you really want a taste of the
incredible story of this tragic race war, I suggest reading, Nelson Reed's, Caste
War of Yucatan, found usually in second hand book stores and in bookstores
in Cancun and Playa del Carmen. Many historical battle sites can be visited,
including the "Caste War Museum" in Tihosuco, near where the war
started (south of Valladolid), and of course the incomparable historical town of
Felipe Carrillo Puerto, where you can not only visit the "grotto of the
cenote of the Speaking Cross" in a park but you can attend mass in the
Balam Na, the town church, originally built by Ladino slaves as a Maya temple to
the Speaking Cross. The irony of the town overwhelms me every time I go there. Mike Reed
On the other hand, Tulum has the most beautiful ocean setting one can imagine!
The lichen-darkened limestone temples contrasting against the turquoise
Caribbean is breathtaking. However, keep in mind that Tulum, is the "most
visited archaeological site" in America, a fact not to be ignored in the
high season, especially between the hours of 10 am and 3 pm. The parking lot
alone dwarfs the small size of the ruins. Tulum also, is, in my opinion,
somewhat of a disappointment as far as ruins go. It was in continuous use for at
least 500 to 1,000 years but most of the architecture represents the
post-classic period, characterized by rather "shoddy" workmanship on
the buildings and small, cramped temples. Nevertheless, it is well worth seeing
for the sake of its location and historical importance.
To read more about
Tulum: